About Rock Climbing in Clear Creek Canyon

---

Intro

Clear Creek Canyon is a local gem in Golden, Colorado that has routes of all grades with a wide variety of styles and movement. With currently around 1,300 routes, there are enough routes to last you many seasons! Climbing in the canyon has been popular for decades, but more recently in the 1990's there were many sport routes developed in the canyon, making it more accessible to the local climbers. By the beginning of the 2000's, there were around 400 routes in the canyon and Clear Creek Canyon was on the map as a local climbing spot. With many great climbers passing through the Front Range, the canyon grew in popularity and also development over the years. You can now find classic routes in both the 5.6 and 5.14 grades, and with over 100 different crags and 1,300 routes to choose from to this day. The canyon follows the Clear Creek, which carved this canyon from near Idaho Springs all the way to Golden, which is now accessed by Highway 6. 

Layout of the Canyon and Getting There

The canyon runs along Highway 6, with the east side of the canyon being Golden and the west side being where Highway 6 joins up with I-70, towards Idaho Springs. The Canyon is sectored into different sections that relate to how close they are to the tunnels in the canyon. For example, Tunnel 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, with the exception of The Long Stretch that is just a long stretch between two tunnels, or even Lookout Mountain Road, Windy Saddle, and Mount Zion falling outside of the canyon proper, but are still considered part of Clear Creek Canyon. Scroll Down for a layout of the walls in the canyon, or head over to our Crag Recs page or Top 10 lists for our recommended routes or areas to visit in the canyon. 

The Guidebook

The best possible way to learn about the canyon, find the crags and routes, and get psyched with cool photos is by having the one and only guidebook to the canyon, Rock Climbing Clear Creek Canyon 3rd Edition, by Kevin Capps. This book covers the entire area, including every crag and route in the canyon with a description, gear recommendation, and well-made topo photos of the crags so you can get to where you are trying to climb! To purchase, you can head over to our page HERE. 

Mountain Project

Local climbers do a pretty good job of updating their new routes on Mountain Project, which makes that a great resource for the canyon. 

Equipment

For the majority of the climbs in the canyon, a 70-meter rope, 14 quickdraws, and a belay device are the essential materials. While a 60-meter rope will get you up and down most of the climbs in the canyon, you will be limited at walls like Cat Slab, Little Eiger, and even Creekside. 

•60 or 70-meter rope, always knot the ends of your rope!
•Helmets are highly recommended, especially for multi-pitch climbs.
•12-18 quickdraws. Read the route descriptions. If there are 12 bolts, and a 2-bolt anchor, then bring 14 

quickdraws.
•Slings or Runners: Some routes will specify whether or not slings are necessary to reduce rope drag, although, in general three or four slings are nice to have regardless.

 •Stickclip: These are nice to reduce 

the danger of a few hairy first or second clips. There are a few routes in the canyon that require them and we tried to note it in the route descriptions. 

•Trad Climbing: The gear for all of the trad climbs are in reference to Black Diamond Camalot sizes. Many old school sport routes will even have optional gear at times, like the runout finish to the classic, Balkan’ Dirt Diving at Sports Wall. 

Fixed Gear and Fixed Anchors

For most of the popular crags these days, you will find fixed anchors, meaning that the anchors will have steel carabiners for you to clip. 

Is it okay to leave fixed quickdaws or equip a route with permadraws? This has been at the center of many de- bates over the years and will continue to be. There are walls like Primo Wall, New River Wall, and even the Wall of Justice where there has been fixed gear for years. There have been dozens of accounts of quickdraws being stolen off of projects on Anarchy Wall, Primo Wall, The Armory, and even New River Wall. Please do NOT take these quickdraws; they are not booty. On the other hand, it is important to take into consideration the visual impact we are making on other peo- ple enjoying the canyon such as fish- erman, other outdoor enthusiasts, or even motorists for that matter. Also, if you don’t want a thief, especially the Smith Rock leprechaun, stealing your draws, then don’t leave them up. 

Bailing on a Route

Having a bail biner in your pack at all times is nice for those days when the summer storms come in or if you don’t have enough juice to make it to the top. However, if there is dangerous lightning coming in fast, then it is quicker and safer to just lower off of a quickdraw and come back the next day to retrieve it. 

Safety Tips

Safety is of the upmost importance when it comes to climbing and longevity in the sport. Not much changes in terms of climbing safety in Clear Creek compared to other areas. However, there are a few specific things for visiting climbers or newer climbers to pay attention to and observe. It is also important to mention that cell phone towers were installed in the canyon in 2012.

-Always knot the ends of your rope whether you’re rappelling or lowering a climber. You do not want to lower yourself or your partner off your line. 

-There are many routes in the canyon that require a 70-meter rope; be sure and refer to the route length for that requirement. Depending on how much the route meanders, typically 105 feet is the absolute limit to any 60-meter rope when stretched. If routes are over 105 feet, use a 70-meter rope or prepare to down climb. 

-Communication is key – always know how to communicate with your climber/belayer, and more importantly, learn how to communicate when verbal communication is not possible. 

Every year there are a handful of accidents due to miscommunication. Never take your climber off belay when you shouldn’t! It is encouraged to lower through anchors when cleaning, instead of rappelling. 

Please do not toprope through the anchor as it adds unnecessary wear and tear to fixed hardware.

Tyrolleans

-There are two types of tyroleans in Clear Creek: steel cable and rope. In both situations, it is important to anchor yourself in with a primary and a back-up line. Carabiners are required for the rope tyroleans and steel pulleys or steel carabiners should be used for the steel cable by Mission Wall. Please use caution when assessing the safety of the tyroleans, and note that when the rope tyroleans are wet, they stretch and are 

much more strenuous to maneuver across.
-When wading the creek to get to a wall like New Economy Cliff or even Primo, a pair of waders and a long stick for balance are nice to have. Use extra caution during high water, the water is always much stronger than it looks. 

Fixed Hardware Restrictions

Clear Creek Canyon is split up into two different county land managers, Jefferson County and Clear Creek County, and some of the upper parts of the canyon are private property. The dividing line for the counties is approximately a few hundred yards east of Fiscal Cliff. Jefferson County Open Space controls the land to the east of the county line, and everything west is mostly Clear Creek County Open Space or private land. If you are looking to bolt routes in the Jefferson County portion of Clear Creek Canyon, then you must apply for a permit through Jefferson County. The application then goes through the Fixed Hardware Review Committee or the FHRC. The FHRC is a group of climbers in the community that are advocates of new route development. They work with Jefferson County Open Space to help facilitate the new route application process. The approval dates vary year-to-year, however, they can be found on the county website, and you can also CLICK HERE. You may also apply to be an approved bolter, which allows you to bolt routes on approved crags without applying for a permit. If you choose to go this route, then you must also apply at the website HERE. 

Guiding Service

For some, hiring a guide to bring you out for a day of climbing is an excellent and safe option. If you are new to climbing, looking to learn how to set proper anchors for toproping, wanting to further your ability levels, learn how to lead climb, or even learn how to multi-pitch climb, Denver Mountain Guiding is the premier and local guiding service for the canyon. Owner, Kevin Capps, has been guiding in the canyon for years and is also the author of  Rock Climbing Clear Creek Canyon. The guides at Denver Mountain Guiding have more experience in the canyon than any other guide service out there (www.denvermountainguiding.com). Give them a call at (303) 884-2755 or email at info@DenverMountainGuiding.com. 

Weather

Summer: During the summer months you might expect the temperatures to fluctuate between 60 degrees at night and in the mornings to 90 degrees during the day. Clear Creek Canyon has over 300 days of sunshine per year, but one should note that in the summer there are dangerous and fast moving electrical storms. Getting an early start and checking the forecast are often the best ways to avoid afternoon storms. Many local climbers will wait until it cools off in the late afternoons to climb. When there is heavy rainfall, the canyon roads are not the safest places to be due to potential and occasional rock fall/slides. 

Spring and Fall: These are often the most beautiful times to climb in the canyon and offer the best climbing temps, from the upper 40s in the morning to the 60s or 70s in the day. It is important to note that the mountain winds are much stronger this time of year. 

Winter: The winters in the canyon can often be mild, and Highlander is one of the most popular crags due to its all day sun. There is a lot of snowfall each year in the canyon, so take this into consideration if planning to climb in the shade or start a long approach that might be wet, icy, snowy, or even muddy. Also, many ice bridges form in January making access to areas like Primo Wall much easier. However, it is important to check to make sure the ice is solid before attempting to cross. 

Leave No Trace

Clear Creek Canyon has shown a growing popularity in the past several years by climbers, kayakers, fisherman, and even hikers and trail runners. There has also been a growing amount of erosion taking place on the trails, and a large amount of trash that has been left behind by climbers. Please stay on trails and pack out trash, even if it’s not yours. 

Dogs

If you bring your dog to the crag, please be considerate of other climbers. You are responsible for its safety and the safety of others that interact with your dog. Please note that many approaches and crags in the canyon are not suitable for dogs due to exposed ledges, loose scree fields, or even creek crossings. Also, most of the crags are on Jefferson County Open Space land, which requires dogs be on a leash at all times. 

The City of Golden

Golden is one of the greatest towns in America, with a rich history in gold mining, western culture, and of course, Coors beer. It also offers great restaurants, many fantastic microbreweries, and great rest day activities. The people in Golden are as good as they get; if you are ever looking for a suggestion on where to go then just ask a local. To access the main drag from the canyon, take CO-58 east, then take a right and drive down Washington Avenue. Down this road, there is an abundance of shops, restaurants, and bars that are great for locals and tourists alike. If you’re thirsty, take a tour of the Coors factory where you see the large copper kitchen along with being rewarded with fresh beer! If you have a more sophisticated taste for beer, head over to the Mountain Toad or Golden City Brewery, the two local hangouts. Once you arrive in Golden, you will notice the American Mountaineering Center at 10th and Washington, which holds a nice climbing history museum. It’s also the American Alpine Club and Colorado Mountain Club headquarters. Just south of the museum is Clear Creek, where there is often a flurry of summertime activities. From May to September, many colorful groups of locals gather here for tubing down the creek, kayaking, fishing, grilling, and sunbathing. The water is often a bit chilly, it feels great in sunny conditions. Lyons Park is a great base camp for swimming in the creek, kayaking, or tubing. On a side note, alcohol is no longer permitted in the park. 

If you need gear, head over to Bent Gate Mountaineering. It’s right next door to Woody’s Pizza, with the pizza buffet, and the Sherpa House – two great places to go for a bite to eat. 

Seasonal Raptor Closures

Beginning in January of 2016, Jefferson County Open Space issued area closures to a few select areas in the can- yon in order to protect the large number of Golden Eagle nesting sites that are here in Clear Creek Canyon. These closures are issued from February 1st through July 31st; however, some of the closures may be lifted if JeffCO finds that the eagles are not nesting in the closure areas. The closure includes, but is not limited to the following areas. 

•Ghost Crag
•Skinny Legs & Blonde Area  

•Stumbling Block 

•Bumbling Stock
•The Tetanus Gardens
•Evil Area
•Highlander